IJAMNIZAM PHOTOGRAPHY: July 2011

Entry menarik untuk dikongsikan - Ihsan daripada rakan bloggers "http://ejadfotopoyo.blogspot.com"

Assalamualaikum & Salam Sejahtera.

Di sini saya nak kongsi beberapa fatwa sesat yg telah saya dengar drpd pelbagai golongan photographer.

Jangan guna kitlens utk shoot macro, nanti lens boleh rosak. Kita mesti guna lens macro utk shoot macro
- Hebat! Lens tu sgt intelligent sampai dia boleh tau kita tgh shoot apa. Gila kentang!
Bila gambar gelap je, naikkan ISO - sifu Bulb
- Usik la shutter speed & aperture dulu bang. Unless kalau mmg nak efek grain/noise, boleh lah.
Gambar bunga pd dial kamera adalah utk digunakan bila kita masuk hutan - sifu Bulb
- Gambar bunga tu digunakan kalau kita nak shoot macro atau close up la. Ape plak kena mengena dgn hutan?
Jenama 3rd party (Tamron, Sigma, Tokina) tak bagus, cepat rosak. Gunakan brand yg original utk lens dan flash, baru tahan lama dan gambar lebih lawa- group jurufoto Facebook
- Dlm group di facebook, group Jurufoto, ada 1 guy ni post, lens sigma dia rosak, dia tanya nak hantar repair kat mana since lens tu dah tamat warranty.
- Then dgn confident nya ada la mamat lain reply;
  "Lain kali jgn beli 3rd party, cepat rosak. Beli brand yg original, baru la tahan lama"
- Kalaulah 3rd party brand tu tak bagus dan cpt rosak, camne diorang boleh bertahan lama dlm industri?
- Guna brand original, gambar lebih lawa? Ha ni sape ajar nih?
- Setiap brand, coating lain-lain. Lawa tak lawa tu pulak subjektif pd yg melihat.
- Andaikata saya upload 2 gambar yg sama, tp menggunakan lens yg berbeza, 1 original (Nikkor/Canon) dan 1 lg 3rd party, boleh ke dgn mata kasar anda tu, anda jwb gambar tu diambil guna lens apa? Boleh?
- Just because anda ada bad experience dgn 3rd party brand pd 1 masa dulu, anda tak boleh buat kesimpulan mcm tu.
14MP compact camera lebih power drpd 10MP DSLR - sifu Bulb
- Lebih power camne tu? Ce cite ce cite
- Megapixel utk kamera compact tak boleh di compare dgn DSLR, kerana masing-masing mempunyai saiz sensor yg berbeza.
- Sepertimana DSLR 12MP APS-C dgn DSLR 12MP Full Frame, walaupun sama-sama 12MP, tp disebabkan full frame mempunyai saiz sensor yg lebih besar, so lebih detail, tak sama dgn APS-C.
Makin tinggi megapixel, gambar makin sharp
- Fatwa ni antara yg terfeymes. Ramai berpendapat semakin tinggi MP, gambar semakin sharp.
- MP (megapixel) hanya berperanan dlm menentukan saiz gambar.
- Semakin tnggi MP, semakin besar saiz/resolution gambar tersebut, TAPI semakin besar tak bermakna ia semakin sharp.
- MP yg tinggi berguna jika anda nak crop gambar tu tanpa nmpk pecah/pixellated, serta printing yg lebih besar.
- Sharp atau tak, depends pn lens yg digunakan - focal length, bukaan aperture, serta setting dlm kamera utk sharpness.
- Kalau guna kamera 800MP sekalipun, lps tu guna lens 50mm F1.8 pd aperture f/1.8, soft jugak gambar tu.
Pro ramai guna Nikon. Canon tak bagus, sbb dia baru masuk industri kamera
- Brand war adalah debat yg takkan setel sampai kiamat.
- Statement yg datang drpd fanboy Nikon. Dia kata dah guna Nikon 10 tahun, sejak zmn filem lagi.
- Then dia kata ramai pro guna Nikon sbb Canon ni baru je menceburi industri kamera.
- SERIOUSLY?? Canon baru dlm industri kamera???
- Ye ke pro byk guna Nikon? Semua brand sama-sama fight la. Statistik mana yg tunjuk pro byk guna Nikon, meh kasi tunjuk sama saya.
Lens prime 35mm F2.8 ketinggalan zaman, tak bagus. Skrg org gunakan kitlens 18-55 - sifu Bulb
- 35mm F2.8 tak bagus? Hoih, tu antara wide lens terhebat masa zaman full-frame analog, dgn hasil yg sgt sharp dan distortion yg sgt minimal.
- Lps tu, bila kita nak compare something, biar ada genre. Bagus/tak bagus dari segi apa, bukan main belasah je ckp bagus/tak bagus.
- Contoh - Lens 300mm F2.8 bagus utk sport, tp tak bagus utk shoot indoor wedding
Shutter speed memainkan peranan dlm penghasilan bokeh
- Apa plak kena mengena dgn shutter speed nih?
- Bokeh ialah hasil drpd DOF yg sempit, yg mana disebabkan oleh aperture.
  http://ejadfotopoyo.blogspot.com/2011/01/bokeh.html
Kalau lens tu takde VR/IS, gambar confirm blur sbb gegar
- Kalau mcm tu, org-org lama yg guna lens without VR/IS tu semua gambar gegar la?
- VR/IS tu mechanism utk MENGURANGKAN risiko gegaran, bkn MENGHILANGKAN.
  http://ejadfotopoyo.blogspot.com/2011/02/mari-belajar-fotografi-11-shake.html
Kamera akan cpt rosak kalau selalu tukar lens
- Kalau fatwa ni betul, dah lama dah kamera saya jahanam.
- Kalau kita ni jenis yg gelojoh, jgn kata tukar lens, masa tukar bateri atau memori kad tu pn boleh menyebabkan kamera rosak.
Org yg gantung DSLR kat leher tu nmpk cool!
- Premis 1: Wujud kaum Hawa yg suka tgk photographer.
- Premis 2: Kaum Adam sukakan kaum Hawa.
- Kesimpulan: Maka wujudlah kaum Adam yg beli DSLR semata-mata utk menampakkan diri mereka tu photographer supaya disukai oleh kaum Hawa.
  
  PS - aku selalu gak gantung DSLR, takde gurl approach pun :(
"Gambar saya tak lawa sbb original, tak edit"
- Biasa jwpn ni diberi oleh budak baru yg tak reti edit dan gambar tak lawa.
- Bila org kritik/komen skit, ha tu lah jwpnnya.
- Persoalannya, kalau edit, confirm lawa ke gambar tu?
  http://ejadfotopoyo.blogspot.com/2011/02/editing-satu-kewajipan.html
Kalau guna DSLR, gambar confirm cun!
- Means in contrary, kalau guna kamera selain DSLR, gambar confirm tak cun la?
- SKILL + KNOWLEDGE la bang. Sendiri mau ingat.
Penggunaan filter dpt menghalang penumbuhan fungus
- Filter - efek (CPL, ND, Color Filter), melindungi elemen hadapan lens
- Fungus - tumbuh disebabkan kelembapan yg tinggi
- So, mcm mana plak penumbuhan fungus yg disebabkan oleh kelembapan tu boleh dihalang dgn memakai filter yg tujuannya takde kena mengena langsung dgn kelembapan?
Bokeh itu BULB - sifu bulb
- Aku - "Bokeh tu ape eh?"
- Sifu bulb - "Bokeh? Oh, ni bokeh" (sambil menunjukkan setting shutter speed BULB pd kamera beliau)
- Aku - "Erk? Ye ke? Mcm langsung takde kaitan je"
- Sifu Bulb - "Betul la bokeh tu bulb. Aku tak tau la fakulti kau ajar guna term apa, tp fakulti aku guna bulb"
Kamera akan cepat rosak kalau selalu guna format RAW
- Ni pun takleh blah gak. Meh saya story skit mcm mana penghasilan gambar itu berlaku, dari saat anda menekan shutter sampailah gambar tu disimpan dlm memori kad. Jika saya salah, tolong betulkan.
- Setiap kali gambar diambil, originally formatnya adalah RAW (tanpa sebarang pemprosesan)
- Kemudian, kamera akan check setting kita, sama ada kita pilih RAW atau JPEG
- Jika kita pilih format RAW, maka gambar RAW itu tak akan diproses apa-apa, terus disimpan dlm m.kad
- Jika kita pilih format JPEG, gambar RAW kita td akan dimasak mengikut 'ramuan' megapixel, sharpness, contrast, saturation etc etc, then disimpan dlm format JPEG di dlm m.kad
- So technically, setiap snap, jadi ke tak jadi, OE ke UE, blur ke sharp, adalah RAW.
- Dan dari RAW lah ia jadi JPEG. Bahan mentah (RAW) mesti wujud dulu, barulah ada makanannya (JPEG).
- Kalaulah fatwa ni betul, means mmg kamera kita confirm akan rosaklah!
Gambar Canon lebih sharp drpd Nikon (salah 1 drpd cabang Brand War)

Awak, awak guna Canon & prime 50mm, lepas tu compare sharpness dgn Nikon & kitlens 1855, hilang akal ke apa?

Plus, berapa sharp ko nak? Sampai luka mata tgk gambar ke?

Dah teracun dgn Canon punya 'sharpness', dia pun jumpshiplah ke canon.
Lepas tu bising gambar tak sharp mcm member, sbb guna kitlens je.

Lain kali kalau nak compare, sama-sama la body APS-C/FX, guna lens yg sama, baru fight.

Kalau korang masih nak fight mana bagus antara Nikon ke Canon ke kamera enset ke ape ke, lantak koranglah.

Kami photographer yg bertauliah ni kerja kami senang je - we let our pictures do the talking.
Lens 70-200 F2.8 lebih sharp drpd kitlens 18-55

Ok, first of all, its a stupid comparison.

Kitlens ialah antara lens termurah dan termudah yg kita dpt masa beli DSLR.
While lens 70-200 F2.8 pulak adalah portrait/wildlife/sport lens yg berharga at least RM4000 (3rd party) dan RM6000 ke atas (original manufacturer).

Range pulak tak sama: 1855 covers landscape and mid-range zoom, 70-200 pulak cover telephoto zoom.

So, kedua-dua lens ni mmg tak boleh nak dicompare, sbb range, kegunaan, harga, semua tak sama langsung.

2nd, komen ni berlaku pd gambar landscape. Bukan niat nak mengutuk mereka yg ada lens 70-200, tapi kalau korang rasa betul-betul hebat sgt dgn lens yg besar bagak tu, mai kita outing landscape, aku bwk kitlens, kau bwk 70-200, ok?

Duh, kalau ye pun nak kutuk kitlens, compare la dgn lens yg sama range, mcm Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 ke, Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 ke. Ada pergi compare senapang gajah dgn pistol air.

Tambahan: majority gambar aku diambil guna kitlens. Kalau korang rasa kitlens tak sharp, tu bkn salah kitlens, tu salah diri sendiri yg masih belum mahir dlm asas photography. Jgn asyik nak salahkan tools je. Practice makes perfect.
Mode BULB boleh merosakkan lens

A'ah, especially jika lens tu tiada VR/IS, dan itu wide lens, ia akan cpt rosak jika mode Bulb digunakan.

WAKLUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!!!

Dey, bulb tu shutter speed dlm body kamera. Apehal boleh kasi lens rosak lak?
If sensor rosak tu mcm logik la sikit, sbb jika mode Bulb tu lama sgt, sensor boleh jadi terlalu panas, tapi kemungkinan ini sgt jarang berlaku.
Guna ISO tinggi boleh buat kamera rosak

Ish, semua benda boleh buat kamera rosak. Jgn main kamera lah!

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Kenapa diwujudkan topik fatwa sesat ni?
Sebab saya tak sanggup melihat budak-budak yg baru join photography ditipu hidup-hidup oleh rakan taulan yg mereka anggap sbg SIFU tapi bg maklumat yg salah.

Ada yg panas & terasa? Siapa yg terasa, inilah masanya utk anda membetulkan semula ajaran yg dah silap tu.

So jika anda ingin berguru, memanglah kita pun tak sure segala maklumat yg diberikan tu betul, tapi jika ada benda yg boleh fikir common sense, please, fikir sikit. Jgn telan je bulat-bulat.

Sifu ke master ke, mereka still manusia, Saya pun manusia yg tak akan lepas drpd membuat kesilapan. Tapi jgn lah ikut je cakap tu bulat-bulat. Kita hidup di zaman yg serba canggih, internet boleh di access melalui handphone. So rajinkan diri meng-google, buat homework sikit, ok? Guna common sense tu betul-betul.

Dan pesanan bg anda yg merupakan trainer atau tenaga pengajar dlm bidang ni, termasuk saya, tak semua benda kita tahu. Andai ada someone tanya saya psl underwater atau wildlife photography, mmg saya zero dlm genre ni.
But instead of memberikan jwpn yg ntah hape-hape, saya ckp je yg saya tak tau, sila tanya pd mereka yg lebih arif.

So kalau tak tau, ckp je tak tau. Takyah malu. Baik malu tak tau drpd malu sbb kantoi bg ajaran sesat.

Sekiranya anda merupakan seorang photographer yg prihatn, sebarkan artikel ni supaya tiada lg mereka yg bakal disesatkan oleh seafood/siput yg tak bertauliah.

Jika anda pun pernah dgr apa-apa fatwa yg meragukan atau menyesatkan, sudi-sudilah share dgn saya ye.

Yg poyo & tak berapa sesat,
Ejad Fotopoyo

Petikan Article untuk di share...........Enjoy reading!

What makes a good picture?

Focus.
• Squeeze gently! Most digital cameras require a gentle first pressure to allow the
camera to auto-focus and set exposure. You can then press the rest of the way down
to take the picture.

• Hold still! Avoid “camera shake.”
Shutter speeds are slower on point-and-shoot digital cameras, so you need to hold
still longer than with a traditional film camera. It can be helpful to pull your elbows
into your chest to lock into a more stable position. You can also purchase relatively
inexpensive tripods to help you out (see http://www.joby.com for gorillapod as an
example) and consider using the camera’s self-timer to press the shutter button.

Good exposure.
• Try turning off the flash! Most digital cameras have an auto-flash mode, but try overriding
this once in a while. Even indoor pictures can sometimes look better without
the flash on. Experiment when taking photos to see what looks best.

A good frame.
• Get close to your subject. Never think of a zoom lens as an alternative to getting in
close - move in physically. The less you use your zoom, the clearer your picture will
be.

• Avoid centering. Move your subject off center once in a while. You don’t always have
to have the most important part of the photo dead center. Use the rule of thirds. The
Rule of Thirds is based on the fact that the human eye is naturally drawn to a point
about two-thirds up a page. Crop your photo so that the main subjects are located
around one of the intersection points rather than in the center of the image:

There are other rules that are similar that are good to consider. See
http://www.colorpilot.com/comp_rules.html for more information.
• Take portrait and landscape photos. Turn your camera to fill the frame in the best
way possible, but remember to keep your fingers and camera straps out of the
picture!

• Always consider cropping. Is there something in the frame that could be focused
more closely on to make the photo more interesting?

• Consider using odd or unusual angles to make things more interesting. Get down on
the floor if you’re photographing kids or up on a table to show a bird’s eye view.

People doing things.
• Group shots can all look similar, so focus on people doing things and not necessarily
posing. Show people in their natural environment or activity rather than staging
them.

• Be subtle to catch your subject off guard. When people know they are being
photographed they sometimes become less natural or spontaneous. Try using the
LCD to frame your pictures rather than the viewfinder. You’ll be a little more subtle
and your subjects might be a little more relaxed if they don’t know they are being
photographed.

Good color and contrast.
• Direct sun can be too bright and interior shots can be too dark. Consider the time of
day or the indoor lighting of where you’re taking your photos.

• Consider the background in your photo. It shouldn’t be too busy or it will distract
from the main subject.

Tip for digital camera users
Take a ton of photos!
• It’s easy with digital cameras to simply delete the photos you don’t like before they
are ever printed, so snap away! The more you take, the better the chance that you’ll
end up with something spontaneous and wonderful.

See below links for another ideal basic photography tips from one of my favorite blogger. I guess these are the most 3 basic introduction are going to be the most important stuff's for those newbies :)
Journey to the Poyoland: BASIC - Aperture
Journey to the Poyoland: BASIC - Shutter Speed
Journey to the Poyoland: BASIC - ISO